On this subject, why are so many writers having a problem with flashback.  The engine is still the same engine.  The cylinders and valves are still getting fuel through the same ports.  In order to get flash back or back fire ( as opposed to after fire in the exhaust ) the intake valve would have to be open while the cylinder burn is taking place.  How can this be caused simply by adding H.H.O..  Remember the intake valve does not open until after the exhaust cycle has occured.  I believe valve overlap can occurr in some designs but even so all burning gasses have been exhausted by the time the intake opens.  This is assuming the engine is in good condition.  No burned or sticking valves.

1998 Honda Civic Hatcback

2001 Ford F350 7.3 Crewcab, Dually, FWD

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And so I have retested a month later with the following results:

I read a post here where someone suggested unrestricted airflow would yeild better mpg. That seemed possible to me so I maximized unrestricted airflow on another trip to Tallahassee THEN retested Bobs restricted airflow on my return trip. Both ways; no "Service Engine Soon" light, and I used 2 H.H.O. booster cells with a MAP controller, same setting both ways.

RESULTS:

Outgoing = Air filter removed and narrow air intake removed yeilded only 18 mpg.

Return Trip = Air filter replaced and intake 50% blocked yeilded 26 mpg.

Hard to argue with facts, thats a BIG difference.....  Thanks Bob  

97 Chevy Astro with 244,000 miles

Niceville Florida

www.h2obay.com

 . . . and another attaboy for you!

Norm

Tempe, Arizona

As posted previously, his "baseline mpg" is 15mpg+/-.

We re-routed the H.H.O. hose to the pcv line and drove 67.2 miles to our destination. The mpg dropped to less than the "baseline mpg". YIKES!!

For the return trip, 67.2 miles, we hooked it back into the aircleaner canister. The mpg's went back up to: 31.39mpg's. I didn't want to reduce air flow, as this vehicle is a 1989 model and has a carburator with auto choke. The point being; Bob Foreman's theory of using intake air for H.H.O. seems to have a basis in fact.

Incidently, there are no other modifications. No wrapped 02 sensors, no enhansments, only 3 W4G style "Electrolyzers".

Keep it up my friends, we'll get there yet!!

Walking Eagle, Last of the Visionaries

Bakersfield, CA

Kudos to both of you. Many thanks!!

Walking Eagle, Last of the Visionaries

Bakersfield, CA

#1> VoA = VOLUME of Air @ the Intake = THE most Important Thing.
       This =ALONE= Should result in a 40% Increase in MPG = For ANYONE in  the World on a Post-1993 vehicle..! 
       We MUST fool the computer into thinking it is "At Altitude" = THEN, it will do MOST of the work FOR us..!  It WILL work for even 1992 and earlier vehicles -- but the jets will have to be down-sized (smaller).

#2> Double, "Double Venturi" = See Picture..!
      THE Guaranteed Delivery System = Smoothly & Efficiently..!
      <(the metal band at the 'waist' can be ANY length)>
      You can have Muliple 'Wings'..! <THINK about it>  H.H.O., Water Vapor, Fuel Vapor,

#3> Water Vaporiser = So MANY and FREE Component Parts..!
     INCREASED: Compression, Power, MPG, Service Life, etc.
     REDUCES: Emissions, Pollution, Maintenance Downtime & Costs,
     RUNS: Cooler, Cleaner, Quieter, Smoother, SELF-Cleaning, = AGAIN, For ANYONE in the World..!

#4> Hydrogen Generators = Whatever you produce will be enough.
     USUALLY, 3 packs or 6-packs are beneficial = but depending on the  vehicle, NOT Always..!   ... not for ALL of us.

#5> Fuel Heaters = Are a great enhancement = a Low-tech Approach with  High-tech Results..!

#6> PCV Enhancers = Are a great enhancement = a Low-tech Approach with High-tech Results..!

#7> For MOST of us -- and depending on the type of Vehicle, we will NO LONGER have to deal with;
 Efie's, O2 Sensors, AIT's, MAF's, MAP's, etc, etc... and 'endless tweaking'..!

Bob Foreman

The Science behind HOD / W4G is called "Cathodic Protection" (CP)

Atlanta, GA

	Post Attachments
	A Double, DOUBLE Venturi (480x640).jpg (29 views, 46.34 KB)

So, if I'm putting the H.H.O. gas into the vacuum line of my pcv wouldn't that have the same effect as putting into the air filter box or tube that goes to the throttle body? I've gotten pretty decent results, of course I would like to improve what I've gotten so far.

I've seen the latest picture of the venturi and I'm still a little confused as to the placement of it. Does it go into the air box above the 'blocked' air filter or into the 4" hose that connects the air box with the throttle body box or should I put it into the box that is right before my throttle body? And if any of these places, does it just lay in there or do I adhere it and if I adhere it, how do I adhere it in place?

Any helpful advice would be greatly appreciated and Thanks in advance.

Hanover, Pa.

2005 Dodge Ram Quad Cab 4.7 L

23 MPG Rural/28 Highway

1 Cross Cell, 2 Dual Efies for pre and post cat, 1 Excalibur for other sensors.

www.water4gas-glenville.com

HELLO IMSTAN..!

*** THAT'S SEVERAL QUESTIONS = AND NONE ARE EASY.  FIRST, LET ME SAY, YOU'RE DOING NOTHING WRONG.   IF WHAT YOU'RE DOING, "WORKS FOR YOU" = END OF STORY.   'MY' ADVICE IS GIVEN TO A LARGE GROUP OF GUYS = SOME SMARTER THAN ME, SOME MORE EXPERIENCED = AND A LOT OF NEWBIES..! SO IT IS SOMETIMES 'SIMPLISTIC' = OR GENERAL IN NATURE.

Concerning the Fresh Air Intake Box <or whatever the proper name or nomenclature is..>, THAT is where "I" would put the BLOCKAGE = <Reducing the VOLUME of Air>.   Perhaps a FLAT, Hard piece of plastic = Cut to fit = and even TAPED-in, (for easy extraction), would work.   Again, "I" would START with 70-75% BLOACKAGE.   But if that didn't work, I would go back and REDUCE the BLOCKAGE to 60-65% = then 50-55%, etc.

The guiding rule-of-thumb, is that you should NOT "Feel" it = Not in Normal, speed-limit, easy-going, unhurried, Driving.   IF you sense that the vehicle is "Sluggish" or "Choking" or "under-powered" = by all means, immediately reduce the blockage..!  

ANY late-model vehicle is DESIGNED to Drive, 'Coast to Coast' = and OVER the mountains..!   It WILL lean-out the fuel at high altitude = but we don't have to 'limp along' at 20 MPH = 55-60 MPH is fine, thank you..!   

Now on the insertion of H.H.O. = I am of the opinion that we should NURTURE and PROTECT what LITTLE bit of H.H.O. that can actually produce..!
First, we DO what we HAVE to do = and IF that means the PCV valve = so be it.    BUT, given the choice = I would take the Venturi.  
THINK ABOUT IT..! 
Going through the 'front door' = With: Clean, Cool, Fresh, Filtered Air = = = OR, going through the 'back door' = With: HOT, HUMID, FOUL, PRESSURIZED & OILY Air. <Please excuse the innuendo ... best I could do on short notice>.

I CANNOT 'PROVE' THIS IS BEST = OR THAT IT IS 'NECESSARY' = But if I were a betting man, I would say your MPG and Fuel Savings would go up..!  

On the double-venturi = I prefer the wineglass and conduit approach = BUT = it CAN be constructed, simply and easily, from the tops of two 20 or 24 Oz, PEPSI, Plastic Bottle Tops..!

Venturi Placement is in the 3 or 4" air hose, from the air box, to the engine = anywhere along that line.  You are on your own here = there are FAR too many makes & models to give specifics for.   I would suggest this = get a air line LIKE YOUR VEHICLE = and practice on it.

AFTER making your venturi = decide about where you want it.  On the PRACTICE Piece = (1.) Cut a along the top (the length of your venturi). (2.) At each end of this cut, make a vertical cut = and FOLD the Cut Section DOWN.  (3.) Mount the Venturi on this "FLAP" <Put your H.H.O. tube through the flap>.  (4.) Use a LITTLE <PERMATEX> to HOLD it in place. (5.) Close the flap & venturi.  (6.) WRAP this section with CLING wrap TIGHTLY.  (7.) Follow up with several TIGHT loops of electrical tape = OR tie-wraps.

Got a Better Idea?!    POST It..!   

Bob Foreman

Atlanta, GA